Monday, April 29, 2013

between here and there

On a stormy morning before easter, a few hungry souls gathered on a beach at dawn. Over steaming coffee they discussed the tide and swell direction and the day before, until inevitably a wave detonated over the slab-like sandbank. The sea had beckoned and it was time.
"Come out and play," beckoned the sea.

The deliberation was over and they spread themselves into the mayhem and jostled to be the first. And without warning, the morning slipped into routine: wave, run back up the beach, punch through the shorey, back out for another.

Cliffi sets up on a gem.



Watchful eyes were entertained by a tricky inside.
And the glassy sea kept delivering hypnotic games. 
Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. 
Until at last the trance was broken. The sea had had enough, drowning the sandbank with reclusiveness.   

Lloyd slips into wave of the day. 
Salty in the action...
...and on run to get some more.
This growler chased me right up the beach.
A perfect wall of shred.
Exploring how thick the lip really is.  

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