namib desert & the south

sossus, we're ready

Our next destination was Sesriem, to see the famous dunes early the next morning. We left Homeb after a quick stroll, but got distracted at zebra pan on our way back to the C19. The pan was full of big herds of gemsbok, zebra (with just day old calves), springbok and wild horses, all out in the open with no fences. Naturally we had to watch so by the time we arrived at the Kuiseb canyon it was already lunchtime.

What a picnic spot. So we spent some time taking photos and then figured that it was here, where the 2 germans found shelter during WWII. Kind of cool seeing the place after reading the book "A sheltering desert". Amazing drive through the canyon and mountains, across tropics of capricorn (again) to Solitaire, where Mooses famous apple pie awaited us. But otherwise there is really nothing there but beautiful landscape. We pulled through to Sesriem and arrived just in time for sunset. We didn't have a reservation, and were lucky to get the last campsite in the overflow camp. This wasn't such a problem since we planned to leave before sunrise the next morning anyway.

backroad in the namib desert past the zebra pan

nothing, but a tree?

what am I?

C19

moonscape all over again

this was the 2 year hideout for 2 germans during world war II

fast lizard decides to pause and check the view

crossing, once again

solitaire and mooses apple pie

So after a good nights sleep we woke before the bird the next morning, to prepare for our sunrise dune mission at Sossusvlei. Leaving the camp in the dark wasn't to difficult, we just had to join the convoy of cars driving the 60km. After spending most of our trip with very few people around, we were somewhat put off by all the tourists. 

We stopped at what we took to be Dune 45, the mandatory hike to watch the sun break the horizon. But it was still dark, and we chose a dune too soon. We realised this already on our walk toward the dune: it didn't seem to get any closer, only bigger. Eventually, we did start climbing the knife edge ridge, knowing that we wouldn't make the top before sunrise. But all the same it was a pleasure to have the dune to ourselves. Eventually we made it huffing and puffing, to an incredible view. 

We then jumped onto a shuttle for the last 5km drive to Sossusvlei (mandatory 4x4 and even that didn't stop some tourists getting stuck). Dead vlei is incredible. Such red dunes and the dried out vlei contrasts nicely for lovely photos. On the way back we chose a more or less untouched route and on the last dune I spotted the tiny but very fast shovel lizard and the white lady spider! Amazing how alive the desert is when looking closer. Arriving exhausted back at camp, we jumped in the pool to cool off, brew a coffee and continued south to a funny place with cows on our campsite, but nice to actually have some time to relax for an afternoon.

sesriem campsite at sunset

early rise at 5am was worth it

amazing colours

hard work to get to the top of our private dune 45 (the actual dune 45 is on the left) and worth the steep climb! see our car?

yep! that was ours!

dead vlei, share it or leave it

big daddy, the biggest dune in Nam

dead vlei is dead

sossus dunes

the shovel lizard running for it

the best way down is fast

any cowshit around?

The next day we drove south on the C27 through Namib Rand Nature Reserve, a beautiful area to spend some time. We saw gemsbok on the road side, a big herd of zebra which we followed a little while before driving further south to find Betta, a petrol station and nothing else (except the hearty portion of springbok fillet to braai that night, yumm!). With our petrol and meat, we carried on the scenic D707 towards Tiras Conservation Park, where the mountains show in all varieties of colour. As in many of the campsites in Namibia, this one was still another 10km drive into the valley and a few gates to pass until we finally got to the camp. Beautifully situated with views across the plains and ending the day with a stunner sunset, delicious braai and lots of stars to round off our trip!

on the road in namib rand

yes, there were mountain zebras

C27

our last camp for the trip - jep, at the very back of the valley and almost to ourselves!

The drive home was past the odd town of Aus, nothing but desert land, and the wild horses of Garup. Past the mining land of Rosh Pinah with its concentration like camps into Richtersveld National Park. What a stunning place with its rugged mountains and the Orange River which invited a dip to cool off.

garup wild horse, not that wild

richtersveld and the road home

So after more than 7000km exploring namibian dirt roads we ended our trip with big smiles, lots of great experiences but also relieved of not needing to do any more driving!

link to part 1 & part 2