drama damara to sea

stars eyes for start skies

Our journey carried on over Grootberg pass on the C40 to Twyfelfontein. We eventually found the petrified forest, after passing several fakes that promised to be equally petrifying. Despite being millions of years old, it is hard to believe or even see that these ancient trees are made of rock. We stayed at Aba Huab camp, right on the river bed. Unfortunately, we didn't see any desert elephant, but met another scorpion which came to sniff out our pasta dinner. Another nights sleep under starry skies!
The next morning we visited Twyfelfontein and looked at the 5000 year old rock engravings (yes, engravings not paintings) before heading on our way to Spitzkoppe. On route we found ourselves on a jeep track in the middle of nowhere, with epic views of Brandberg: we had somehow got off our shortcut (which we probably should have realised at the point that we had to cross a huge dry river bed). Luckily nothing detrimental came of our detour, and we found our way back to our main route without auto incident. As we drove into Uis we were overpowered by the huge sign to a bakery and butcher. With promise of fresh bread and meat, our hopes soared. But after several confusing conversations we found out that this was nothing more than the supermarket, selling stale bread and frozen meat. Another potjie then. We raced out of Uis and promptly missed the turn to Spitzkoppe.

the real deal: tyre repair is a big business in nam

C40 - autobahn, namibia style

petrified forest and endemic welwitschia

wood or stone?

rock art at twyfelfontein

engravings not paintings

well spotted Pete!

brandberg seen from our scenic detour

Missing the turn only added an extra 30km to our 250km of dirt roads that took us to Spitzkoppe. What a stunning place, with campsites spread around the park inbetween the huge granite boulders and the mountain looming behind. Easy to see why this would be any climbers paradise. We also had a go, but just to get to the pool and cool off and climb up a boulder to watch the sunset. A place one could easily spend a few nights, unfortunately our time was limited and the coast was calling.

little matterhorn, or so they say

a swim and sundowners at spitzkoppe

what a day!

just another epic campsite under a sky full of stars

We got many strange looks carrying a surfboard through the nam desert, but eventually it got some use at Henties Bay. It wasn't epic, but it was great to wash off so many days of dust and sun in the sea. The next morning we headed to Cape Cross, after a misty drive through scant landscape and the roadside decorated with unmanned tables selling gemstones. We checked the seal colony for some loud shouting and stinking seals and headed back along the coast to Swakopmund. Our hotel was just a short way from the jetty so that evening we had an amazing seafood diner there.

afternoon beach break

surf check at henties

if only it was bigger... still fun though

make some more noise

who is counting?

The next day we had to sort out our gas cooker, which wasn't empty as we thought, just dirty! Finally we were ready again to go camping and make tea and coffee. We got the permit for the next day, and strolled around the old town and had lunch at the awesome village cafe before going on our afternoon quad bike trip. This was absolutely the way to explore the dunes just behind Swakop and truly amazing. We had great fun doing the roller coasters and roosters, luckily we stuck with the automatic bikes for our first rides!

civilisation in swakop: a funky desert town that feels like being in a playmobil miniature museum

dune excursion on quad bikes

dune belt between B2 and C35

nice helmet, dear

sunset at the jetty - and the amazing Jetty restaurant

Not enough of the desert yet, we explored the moon landscape the next morning. The warm wind almost killed us out there as it climbed over 40C, but the incredible scenery made up for it. Amazing, and again millions of years old and untouched! The tour took us along this canyon like formations to to the Welwitchia plains. The oldest of them being 1500 years old.

moon landscape

millions of years gone by

where is my bike?

welwitschia desert plants can live up to 5 years without water and the oldest is 1500 years old

After feeling properly dried out we returned to the coast to find accommodation somewhere around Walvis Bay, with one last hope of a new swell lighting up the coast. But on arrival, the sea looked like a windy mirror and Walvis seemed to lack charm, so we decided to return to the desert and start our journey south. We made it to the empty campsite at Homeb, in the Namib desert, as another starry night began.

tropic of capricorn crossing number one

our first camp in the namib at homeb

link to part 1 & part 3